After the race on May 30th, I had a few weeks off from the normal routine. My dad was here for a few days after in which I indulged in Golf and some chilling time which was fun. After that I was back to work as usual, but something wonderful happened.
The south shore started firing! The cool thing about this is that it wasn't your typical 1-2 day iffy sutff. This swell was consistent for over a week. When one surge would die, another would come and great us with open arms.
The south shore started firing! The cool thing about this is that it wasn't your typical 1-2 day iffy sutff. This swell was consistent for over a week. When one surge would die, another would come and great us with open arms.
I am so thankful for my dawn patrol sessions and those days after work spent in the water until the sun would set.
I just wanted to share a few picutres of how great the surf was in my little "favorite south shore spot" and notice how few people are in the water.
PARADISE!!
Of course since I have been outta the water for a few months, I did get rocked and rolled out there on the big sets. I forgot how exciting it is to have a huge wall of wave coming at you and you are there in the water saying to yourself...... "I am taking this one on the head" I also love the feeling of being in the perfect spot for that nice long left of excitement. WOW!! I am getting a smile on my face by just writing about it.
I would love to have some pictures of me on these great waves, but unfortunately I don't have someone to sit and take picutres of me when I am in the water. Maybe in the future..... I did see this awesome sign I wanted to share with you. After a good surf sesh, any food is fun to eat
I'm so jealous of all you hot chickas that can surf. FML hehe :)
ReplyDeleteThe pictures are beautiful.
ReplyDeleteMy wife and I love Oahu and your blog; we are swim/bike/run people in CO. Thanks for your Navy service. I worked with two USN E-8s in the early 1970s that faced the choice of E-9 or a commission; each took a different course; both great people. I was a submarine person. I was unfamiliar with your rating, I’d guess STs, FTs, QMs, and non-nuclear ETs did your job on a sub-you would have been pretty darn busy. It would be interesting to know what Navy NEC codes you hold. Thanks again for blogging. Rick and Val
ReplyDeleteOh those fotos are fantastic! LOVE em...
ReplyDelete