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I am so thankful for my dawn patrol sessions and those days after work spent in the water until the sun would set.
I just wanted to share a few picutres of how great the surf was in my little "favorite south shore spot" and notice how few people are in the water.
PARADISE!!
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Of course since I have been outta the water for a few months, I did get rocked and rolled out there on the big sets. I forgot how exciting it is to have a huge wall of wave coming at you and you are there in the water saying to yourself...... "I am taking this one on the head" I also love the feeling of being in the perfect spot for that nice long left of excitement. WOW!! I am getting a smile on my face by just writing about it.
I would love to have some pictures of me on these great waves, but unfortunately I don't have someone to sit and take picutres of me when I am in the water. Maybe in the future..... I did see this awesome sign I wanted to share with you.
After a good surf sesh, any food is fun to eat
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